Michal and Lily, August 2023
Living space: The studio is spacious, tastefully decorated, and all the appliances and furniture are brand new. It is airy and bright, with two entrances and a large patio offering a view of the sea and the east coast of Sicily. On a clear day, you can see all the way down to the lighthouse at Capo Passero, the southernmost point of Sicily and Europe.The view, especially at sunset, is incredible and instantly lifts your spirits in the morning.
Villa: plenty of parking space, gated, and a large garden with vegetables, herbs, and flowers. Lovely cats roam about. The house has three stories and is quite charming, overlooking most of the other villas in the area. We stayed on the ground floor and could still see the roofs and gardens of many other nearby properties.
Surrounding area: Two small shops selling everyday essentials are just a minute’s drive away. A number of excellent markets (including fresh fish), restaurants, sights, hiking trails, and more are within 5 minutes. Everything else you might need, including a butcher and a bakery, is available in Cassibile, a 15-minute drive away. Excellent access to Syracuse and the east coast of Sicily makes this a great base for day trips to Ragusa, Modica, Noto, Marzamemi, etc. [30–90-minute drive], but it’s really ideal for exploring Syracuse. You’ll need at least 4 days to fully “see” it.
Immediate area: the beach is a 3-minute walk straight down from the villa. It’s semi-organized, meaning it consists of limestone slabs with occasional poured concrete platforms. Access to the water is from those rocks. Probably not a good place for small children (for me, this was a huge plus). The street features a row of villas—ranging from large, L.A.-style millionaire glass-walled mansions to traditional cottages—and is narrow, which means the crowds flocking to the beaches swarm the parking spots. I must admit that being able to walk down to these beaches amid all the hustle and bustle is quite satisfying. There’s also a managed beach very close by (with a lawn, chairs and umbrellas, food, and drinks), which is mainly frequented by nearby locals as well. Get there early to secure a good spot. This area offers fantastic snorkeling, since it’s a nature preserve. If you time it right, you can swim alongside hundreds of fish in crystal-clear water. The marine life is diverse, healthy, and large.
The host: I can’t say everything there is to say about Renata, because that would be the entire review and would probably sound over-the-top and insincere. She’s a local, and this is a house her father built; she’s generous in every way—if you’re open-minded and considerate, she happily has so much to offer. Some highlights: cooking together, then sharing the meal as the sun sets, sometimes with other locals, accompanied by lively and intelligent conversations; I learned how to make a number of local dishes [pasta con la sarde, pasta alla Norma, caponata, involtini di melenzane], including how to clean and eat fresh mussels [the man who taught me had hands big enough to cup a basketball and spoke only Italian]; a 6 a.m. bike ride along the coast to the white cliffs with breathtaking views of Syracuse; snorkeling tips from someone who goes every day; visits to local artisans; and several music concerts. Renata seems to know everyone, so there were many instances where we’d go to a store or restaurant that was packed with a line out front, and she’d say, “Ciao, so-and-so!” and we’d just walk right in.